1982 Volume 23 Issue 6 Pages 249-254
An investigation has been made of the amount of gathering and its forms on seam lines sewed by a differential feed, lockstitch industrial sewing machine. The results obtained were as follows :
(1) The seam shrinkage ratio (amount of gathering) was much affected by the differential feed ratio and the flexural rigidity of fabrics. A linear relationship was found between seam shrinkage ratio and (lB-lA) /1B, where 1B and lA are feed strokes of main and differential feed dogs respectively.
(2) The gather forms on seam lines could be distinguished into three cases (see Fig.5) . The forms were classified by (lB-lB′-P), where P is the average stitch length of seam and lB′ is the apparent length of fabrics slipped at a main feed dog.
(3) A linear relationship was found between lB′ and (lB-lA) on a log-log graph.
(4) The seam shrinkage ratio and its forms on seam lines estimated well agreed with the observed results.
