An Estimation of Gap Lengths on the Back Bodice Tight-Fitting Pattern by Draping for Understanding the Back Trunk Form Clothing Design

Abstract

The back bodice tight-fitting patterns (T) were developed from around 50 female trunk replica models by draping, and each pattern was divided into 9 “blocks”. In the previous paper, there was only a positive “gap length (DG_L) ” included in several side lengths (D_L) of bloks onthe back trunk surface development patternsover the corresponding side lengths (B_L) ofthe same body surface (D_L =B_L+DG_L), however, the several side lengths (T_L) on the T blocks had a positive or negative“gap length (TG_L) ”from -0.4 cm to 2.7 cm (T_L= B_L± G_L) . TheseTG_Lwere regarded as a key factor for covering the body's concave and convex shapes in the planar sheeting, but were not accurately known at the T stage drafting. In order to draftTfor each individual without draping, geometrical equations were set up by whichT_Lincluding gap lengths on blocks1, 4-9the back waist line and shoulder line for a dart can be estimated fromB_L. As a result, TG_Lwere readily calculated on a computer without draping, and could be utilized as an indication of the void between the body surfaces andT, and the bodily shape features.