2000 Volume 41 Issue 6 Pages 544-553
In the previous papers, there were“gap lengths (GL) (TL-BL) ”included in several line lengths (TL) on the bodice tight-fitting patterns (T) by draping besides the body line lengths (BL) . These GLwere regarded as a key factor for covering the body's concave and convex shapes in the planar sheeting. In order to draft T for each individual without draping, planar geometrical equations were set up to obtain the estimates of line lengths including GL (TL (EB) ) and darts (GL (EB) ) from the values of BL. In this paper, the T of sixty female models was drafted by using TL (EB) in the computer, and was examined in the bodice's wearing test to obtain the TL for fitting each individual body. There were little differences between TL (EB) and TL; the mean values ranged from -0.22cm to 0.22cm, and the coefficients of correlation among each two lengths were 0.81-0.99. By using the planar geometrical equations for estimating GL, T for each individual has been proved useful in drafting without draping with a high accuracy. An automatic pattern making system, by entering BL into a computer, was developed to prepare patterns of each individual T in about three minutes.
