Relationship between the Sleeve Patterns for Female Adults and Characteristics of arms and Upper Trunks

—Creation of data related to the part of sleeve cap well-fitting to arm characteristics—

Abstract

This study examined the relationship between the pattern measurement data from the shoulder and upper arm data and the sleeve-cap width, sleeve width, and height of sleeve cap, the components of sleeve pattern. For the analysis, the sleeve with the ease (sleeve for basic pattern) as the basic pattern and the closely fit-type sleeve were drawn using the draping method after setting certain conditions for seven models showing the clear difference of each individual subject. The regression equation, the basis of the calculation formula for pattern making rule, was acquired from the relationship between the shape of the human body and pattern size of sleeve for the basic pattern. The results are described below.
1) The silhouette line length between the shoulder point (SP) and the a point of upper arm, the factor of human body related to the height of sleeve cap, showed the high correlation. As compared to the existing measurement data, the silhouette line length has higher correlation with pattern measurement data from the photograph than the armhole (AH) length of body part.
2) The sleeve width of the basic pattern was 4.52 cm wider than the average upper arm girth, and the width of the sleeve of closely fit-type was 3.40 cm wider than the average upper arm girth.
The factor of human body with the highest influence related to the sleeve width was the upper arm girth. The upper arm girth also showed correlation with the waist. The measure value may generate less error than the length of AH forms of body part.
3) For the sleeve cap width, factors similar to those related to the sleeve width demonstrated a high correlation.
It was clarified that the quantity of easing the contraction was increased or decreased depending on the distance between the SP and the c point that was related to the size of the construction surface of the quadric curved surface of shoulder tips part and influenced on the overlay quantity.
Through the results above, it is considered that the useful data supporting the pattern-making system in designing the part of the sleeve cap was identified.
The further study will focus on the equations to calculate the dimensions for wide general use using the regression equation from the data above.