2018 Volume 26 Pages 5-11
This study was conducted to develop raised fabric, resembling that woven using long domestic silk fiber for Western style, by application of raising-technique developed for fabrics made of synthetic fibers. Five quantities of raised fabrics were woven from silk threads of different sizes and quality from different silkworm races maintained at the Institute of Sericulture (The Dainippon Silk Foundation). Samples of the fabric were used for the test trials. The raising processing of silk fabric comprised six processes conducted in the order of softening, emery-raising, raising, shirring, polishing, and finishing. A drum with needles on the raising machine was operated at double the speed used for raising cashmere fabrics; moreover, only weft threads of the silk fabric were raised.Results show that the feel of the raised silk fabric was estimated as “the highest grade” using the Kawabata Evaluation System test (KES). The tensile strength and the tear strength of the fabric were greater than those of high-grade cashmere fabrics. Furthermore, a silk coat was made of the raised silk fabric in western style, with a beaver finish. The coat was solid, with high quality and with luster peculiar to silk.