Sen'i Kikai Gakkaishi (Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan)
Online ISSN : 1880-1994
Print ISSN : 0371-0580
ISSN-L : 0371-0580
Study on the Crepe Fabrics's Design.
Part 2 : The Qualitative Analysis of the Crepe Shapes.
Hidetoshi NakataMasahiro Iwabuchi
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1976 Volume 29 Issue 1 Pages P49-P55

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Abstract
To determine the beauty of a crimp shape in crepe fabrics, the form of wet hard twist yarns caused by balancing a retractive fovce against untwisting torques has been analysed and the following conclusions have been obtained :
1) The. size of crimps is closely related to the numbers of spiral circles, which is given by the following equation :
m=0.2T/(1-f (s))
where m : the numbers of spiral circles,
T : yarn twist in turns per unit length, f (s) : the shrinkage of crepe fabrics when wetted.
2) The amplitude of crimp is related to the radius of spiral circle r, which is given by the following equation :
r=√1- (1-f (s)) 2/0.4πT
3) The thickness of crepe fabrics is propotional to the radius of spiral circles and is greatly influenced by the twist multiplier of hard twisted yarns.
4) The degree of crimp, Ca-1 is a function of fabric shrinkage and is given by the following equation :
Ca-1=A·f (s) 5/2
where, A is an experimental constant determined by the arrangement of weft yarns.
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