Abstract
To improve the dimensional stability of figured crepe fabrics made of hard plied yarns, the mechanisms havebeen investigated of warp and weft-wise shrinkage and extension caused by performances of hard twist yarns, designing, weaving, degumming and finishing conditions. The following fundamental empirical equations have been derived.
(1) A warp-wise shrinkage caused by weaving and degumming is proportional to K1 for flat woven crepe fabrics and to Kc for figured weft double crepe fabrics.
(2) A weft-wise shrinkage is expressed by :
f (s) =a1 (M. T. C.) /K2, for flat woven crepe fabrics, and
f (s) = (1.730×10-4×M. T. C.-0.2K1+5.91) /Kf,
for figured weft double crepe fabrics,
where,
α1 : experimental constant depending on the fabric construction,
K1 and K2 : cover factors of flat woven crepe fabrics at warp and weft-wise direction respectively,
Kc and Kf : cover factors of figured weft double crepe fabrics at warp-and weft-wise direction respectively, and
M. T. C. : Multi-play Twist Coefficient.
