To improve the dimensional stability of figured crepe fabrics made of hard plied yarns, the mechanisms havebeen investigated of warp and weft-wise shrinkage and extension caused by performances of hard twist yarns, designing, weaving, degumming and finishing conditions. The following fundamental empirical equations have been derived.
(1) A warp-wise shrinkage caused by weaving and degumming is proportional to K
1 for flat woven crepe fabrics and to K
c for figured weft double crepe fabrics.
(2) A weft-wise shrinkage is expressed by :
f (s) =a
1 (M. T. C.) /K
2, for flat woven crepe fabrics, and
f (s) = (1.730×10
-4×M. T. C.-0.2K
1+5.91) /K
f,
for figured weft double crepe fabrics,
where,
α
1 : experimental constant depending on the fabric construction,
K
1 and K
2 : cover factors of flat woven crepe fabrics at warp and weft-wise direction respectively,
K
c and K
f : cover factors of figured weft double crepe fabrics at warp-and weft-wise direction respectively, and
M. T. C. : Multi-play Twist Coefficient.
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