The aim of this study was to quantify the changes in hand properties of cotton piqué crepe fabrics in terms of mechanical and surface properties after actual wear. Three pairs of pajama pants were tailored from a cotton piqué crepe fabric and three long-term hospitalized patients wore the pants for 12 to 18 months. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured using the KES-FB system and hand values were calculated. The tactile feel of the crepe fabrics was assessed before and after wear. The extensibility at maximum tensile load of fabrics increased with wear, and the bending and shear properties of fabrics decreased after wear–wash cycles. Primary hand values calculated by equation KN202-LDY show that after wear the Hari (anti-drape stiffness) decreased and Fukurami (fullness) increased. These changes resulted in a softer hand than that of the unworn fabrics, and students evaluated this softness as the preferable hand. Fullness and antidrape stiffness changed while the piqué surface shape was retained, thus generating additional softness.
In this paper, fabric friction curve measured by KES-FB4 surface tester is investigated based on spectrum analysis. Friction spectrum is analyzed compared to surface roughness spectrum obtained simultaneously along the same direction. Samples used are 25 kinds of men’s suitings made of wool including summer and winter use. Results are obtained as follows. (1) Surface roughness of fabrics is divided into “rough” and “smooth” surface of which threshold is 4-5 μm for SMD and -7 for log Pmax, where Pmax is peak value of surface spectrum. (2)The behavior of friction spectrum is divided into three types as follows, (a) uneven surface type, (b) stick-slip (SS) type and (c) mixed type. (3)For the uneven surface type, wave number (1/cm) where the peak value of friction spectrum appears is the same as that of surface roughness spectrum. (4) For the SS type, wave number where the peak value of friction spectrum appears is 20, 40 (1/cm) and low frequency around 0, and does not coincide with that of surface roughness spectrum. (5)For the mixed type, both behaviors of uneven and SS types appear in friction spectrum. (6) The energy of friction spectrum is divided into two parts, i.e. component arised from uneven surface and component arised from stick-slip behavior.
We investigated how the yarns used in single satin stitch influenced the hand evaluation of knitted tapes for fasteners. The hand of five tapes was evaluated by the paired comparison method and principal component analysis. Furthermore, we measured their physical properties, and the relationship between the sensory values for hand and physical properties was studied by correlation analysis. The results are as follows. (1)As a result of the principal component analysis, two principal components, “warmth and thickness” and “smoothness and shittori”, were chosen to represent the hand of knitted tape. (2)The hand of tape with single satin stitch made with fully drawn yarn (FDY) was evaluated using two adjectives “conservative” and “refresh”. (3)The hand of tape with single satin stitch made with draw textured yarn (DTY) was evaluated in terms of the “warm feeling”. In particular, it was found that the hand of tape with single satin stitch of DTY with many monofilaments was evaluated using three adjectives “high-class”, “good in touch” and “comfortable on skin”. (4)The thickness at 25gf/cm2 pressure (TM), the coefficient of friction (MIU) and the mean deviation of MIU (MMD) of the tape with DTY single satin stitch were greater than those of the tape with FDY single satin stitch, and the warm/cool feeling evaluation value (qmax) of the tape with DTY single satin stitch was lower than that of the tape with FDY single satin stitch.