抄録
Breathable waterproof fabrics manufactured by wet coating, dry coating, PTFE-laminating, and PTFE-knitted lining laminating processes were selected to investigate the changes of mechanical properties and tailoring performances. Most of the breathable waterproof finishings are carried out on fabric substrates, so various physical properties are significantly changed not only in feeling of wearing but also in tailoring process. In this study, various characteristic values related with tailoring performance were evaluated. Shear characteristics in the coating types significantly increased with finishing except wet coating type with floating knife, and laminated fabrics also increased in G, 2HG, 2HG5, which depended on the adhesive and laminated membrane. Formability and sewability increased and decreased after finishing, respectively, and dry coated fabrics showed remarkable changes on these tailoring factors. From the examination of the penetrating behavior of the needle into the fabrics, all kinds of breathable waterproof finishing play a significant role in obstructing needle penetrating. Penetration force, frictional force, and penetration energy increased with finishing and plying numbers. The changes were different with finishing methods, and the results were partially confirmed from the broken shape of the stitch holes.
