“いせこみ”に関する一考察

抄録

The factors affecting the applicability of contraction along a sewing line of a clothing portion were investigated by a model sewing experiment and by fastening a sleeve to the shoulder of a suit.
At first, the test sewing to give a designated amount of shirring was carried out along a straight line on rectangular shaped sample cloths. Then the shape and the size of the crease formed on both sides of the sewing line were discussed in terms of clothing material parameters. It is considered that the creases formed are smaller when the contraction in the length along the sewing line is compensated by structural changes of the fabrics such as the change of the thread contact in the texture.
The fabrics having a loose structure, the length of which can be changed easily by applying a small force to any direction can be shirred leaving hardly visible, small creases on both sides of the sewing line. Materials having the loose fabric structure cause relaxation of shirring effect at the texture positions of the woven threads so that the transmission of the shirring effect terminates within a short distance, whereas two dimensional, solid materials such as aluminium foils or papers show a very small relaxation effect and leave longer creases.
Taking into consideration the above results, the shape of the sleeves fastened to the shoulder of a suit was evaluated for various clothing materials.