抄録
Wool fabrics were treated with butyl and phenyl isocyanates (designated as BI and PI, respectively) in N, N-dimethylformamide and the setting properties were studied by the IWS crease angle test with a Hoffman press or by a similar but handy method with a home steam iron. The results obtained by the two set methods agreed well when the fabrics were set without a reducing agent: both BI- and PI- treated fabrics gave temporary set values much higher than those of the control, but only a PI-treated fabric with a high add-on of 14% gave a high permanent set value and other samples were not permanently set. When fabrics were set under reducing conditions, all the fabrics gave high permanent set values with a Hoffman press, while BI- and PI- treated wool samples gave lower permanent set values than that of the control, when set with a home steam iron. Lincoln wool fibers were treated with BI and PI and the extention set with boiling water was also studied with the treated samples. The results of set experiments with the three different methods indicated that the introduction of hydrophobic groups by treatment with isocyanates, especially with PI, gave two different effects on the set values: the treated samples became more resistant to the diffusion of a reducing agent so that mercaptan/disulfide interchange reaction during setting was not enhanced as much as the interchange in the control, while the hydrophobic groups made the set of the samples more stable in hot water. Depending on the setting conditions under reducing conditions, the set values of the treated samples varied with the balance of the two adverse effects.