絹織物のきめ

抄録

The concept of “kime” is an important factor in the sight sense evaluation of texture, and plays an important role in the aesthetics of silk fabrics. Usually “kime” of silk fabric is graded by experts with the sensory evaluation in terms of some fundamental concepts such as fineness, smoothness, regularity. This study attempts to find a correlation between the sight sence evaluation of “kime” given by experts and specification of silk fabric, especially concerning to various types of optical measurements including Fraunhofer diffraction pattern. The order of fineness of “kime” was found to be proportional to the fabric density. The fabric density derived from the distance between diffraction peaks in Fraunhofer pattern was adequate for the purpose. The stronger the order of observable peak in Fraunhofer patterns was, the higher was the regularity of fabric lattice. The smoothness of “kime” was proportional to the fabric density, but the existance of noticeable gap between ends or fillings largely spoiled the feeling of smoothness. An index was defined as a ratio of the distance between diffraction peaks to the diameter of center spot in Fraunhofer pattern. The index showed a good linear relationship with the sight sense evaluation of smoothness given by experts. The order of “kime” for silk fabrics evaluated by experts agreed with the order of sum of values derived from methods described above.