縫製において発生する重ね布地のよこ方向のずれ

抄録

What factors of woven fabrics affect the transverse slippage in the sewing process of two-ply fabrics was investigated by the discriminant analysis; the seam specimens used were classified into two or three groups on the basis of the maximum amount of slippage. The results showed that the weight and the shear rigidity parallel to sewing direction were very influential on the transverse slippage; and that the bending rigidity was also contributory to the slippage but not so crucial compared with the former two factors. The principal component analysis of the fabric data such as weight, thickness, bending rigidity and shear rigidity showed that fabrics that caused the transverse slippage could be classified on the scatter chart defined by the first two principal axes. The results obtained will be useful in selecting fabrics at the stage of planning, and in preventing the slippage at the stage of sewing.