2023 Volume 88 Issue 3 Pages 505-522
This study explores the distinctions between handmade and machine-made embroideries among the Miao people in southwest China, comparing their perceptions of consumers and sellers who often regard the former as authentic and the latter as inferior. Specifically, the study reexamined the authenticity of Miao handicrafts by delving into the embroidery production practices of the Miao, which involve the process of Miao women learning the costume crafting techniques, as well as the evolution of various embroidery techniques at different times. In conclusion, the study proposes that while the satin stitch embroidery where a stencil is used, which gained popularity among the Miao in the 1980s, requires faithful replication of the model, a counted-thread embroidery, which was popular prior that time, requires a slight degree of originality based on the embroidery sample. Furthermore, machine-made embroidery primarily found its place in the satin stitch embroidery where a stencil is used, which was repeatedly duplicated during the handcrafting process. These observations highlight that the Miao engage in two distinct types of handcrafting, namely, replicating a model and creating from a sample. The concept of replicating a model can also be identified in the production process of machine-made embroidery, contributing to the dissemination, establishment, and maintenance of costumes as prestige goods.
