This paper examines the conflicting phenomena of printing and handcrafting of skirts of the Hmong (Miao ethnic group) in Wenshan Prefecture, Yunnan Province, China, as a case study, to clarify the process of acquiring cultural authenticity for ethnic minorities. In China, a multi-ethnic country, what ethnic minorities wear functions as the "ethnic dress" to differentiate ethnic groups. As a result, visual information such as differences in external shapes is emphasized; however, handwork such as dyeing, weaving, and embroidery are becoming extinct. Over the past 30 years, the use of screen prints and printed synthetic fabrics has replaced the wax-dyeing and cross-stitching used for skirts in Hmong.
In recent years, however, an "old style" incorporating handwork has reemerged in the local market. This paper clarifies that there is a process of acquiring authenticity unique to China, as the "old style" plays the role of handcraft as "tradition" and commodification as "innovation."
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