2023 Volume 88 Issue 3 Pages 543-561
The purpose of this paper is to critically examine the dichotomy between handmade and machine-made products through the phenomenon of "printification," which occurs in the production and consumption of so-called "traditional" textiles, through the lens of ajrakh, a dyed textile produced in the district of Kutch in Gujarat, India. This dichotomy, along with the association of craftsmanship with morality and authenticity, has persisted since 19th century industrialization. However, the boundaries are still not fixed and are expressed differently across various social and cultural contexts.
Ajrakh fabrics have traditionally been produced for local pastoralists by the Khatri artisan community. The emergence of ajrakh reproduction technology during the 1970s led to a shift toward printification in tandem with a revival of traditional techniques. This paper analyzes how producers evaluate various ajrakh products according to their status as "handmade" or "machine-made." Furthermore, in this paper, conflicts over the right to verify the authenticity of ajrakh products are clarified.
