DEFINITION OF THE BREAKER INDICES AND UNIVERSAL CONSTANT FOR A BREAKING WAVE BASED ON A NEW OCCURRENCE CONDITION FOR BREAKING WAVES

抄録

 Kinematic and angular conditions have been predominantly used as the occurrence conditions in the study of a breaking wave. The author defined new occurrence conditions for a breaking wave based on mechanical conditions by achieving a balance between the centrifugal and gravitational forces acting on water particles at the wave crest. Furthermore, it has been demonstrated that, for a breaking wave, the new occurrence conditions are equivalent to the universal constant. Based on these new occurrence conditions, the breaker index of deep-sea waves was derived. In addition, the author derived the breaker indices for long waves and any water depth using the universal constant for a breaking wave.