EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON IRREGULAR WAVE DEFORMATION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION OVER SHALLOW REEF

Abstract

 Irregular Regular wave data over the shallow reef with steep slope were analyzed using data of experiments conducted by Sekimoto et al.(2011). Occurrence distribution of wave height is investigated. Statistical parameter, such as maximaum wave height, Significant wave height, rms wave height, rms value oflong period wave were also investigated. Condition of the reborn of waves on the reaf is studied. Upper limit of maximum wave height corresponds to breaking condition of solitary wave on the reaf is found.