EXPERIMENTAL STUDY ON WAVE SET-UP AND WAVE DEFORMATION OVER SHALLOW REEF WITH STEEP SLOPE

Abstract

 Regular wave data over the shallow reef with steep slope were analyzed using data of experiments conducted by Nakajima et al.(2011). We selected root mean square wave height H_rms as wave height in our analysis for wave energy evaluation. By using a parameter H_rms/d, d is mean water depth, we estimate the parameter for the reborn wave height on the reef as 0.28±0.1. We investigate wave energy decay process using the parameter. We also study wave characteristics after wave breaking under the condition of flow existance.