Oleoscience
Online ISSN : 2187-3461
Print ISSN : 1345-8949
ISSN-L : 1345-8949
Ancient Court Dyeing from Asuka to Heian Period - Its Vivid and Robust Colors and Unknown Advanced Techniques
Masaaki AOKI
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2025 Volume 25 Issue 2 Pages 59-65

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Abstract

This paper reports on the current status of research aimed at scientifically elucidating the advanced dyeing techniques used at the Heian period court. Ancient dyed textiles retain their vivid colors even today, and it is believed that these techniques have been lost. In particular, two dyeing techniques described in the Engishiki, “Karakurenai” and “Kourozen”, will be discussed. Karakurenai is a bright pink color made from safflower. There are relatively many previous studies on safflower. The search for ancient dyeing techniques has made some progress with reference to those and the dyeing methods of the Edo period. However, some points remain unexplored, such as the role of wheat bran and the effect of temperature on dyeing. Kourozen is a yellowish-brown color made of haze and suou, and is shrouded in so many mysteries, such as the large amount of suou used and the dyeing method described in the Engishiki that the author has yet to publish substantial research. Many aspects of ancient dyeing techniques remain to be clarified. Further experiments and literature research will help to unravel the mystery of how ancient dyers created these beautiful colors.

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© 2025 Japan Oil Chemists' Society
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