外洋に面した海岸における長周期波の特性

茨城県波崎海洋研究施設における現地波浪観測

抄録

Field measurements were conducted using specially developed wave measuring devices at Hazaki coast in Ibaraki Prefecture. Based on the data, characteristics of infra-gravity waves have been studied. Infra-gravity oscillation becomes dominant in offshore side of secondary breaking point. The low frequency wave components around f=0.02-0.05Hz are found to be in good correlation with the envelop of incident group waves. The lower frequency wave component of f≤0.01Hz, however, does not show clear relation with the incident group waves. The existence of standing edge waves is suggested by the analyzed coherence and phase results on horizontal velocity components. Most of these results show typical characteristics as the dissipative beach which Wright-Short have classified.