2002 年 18 巻 p. 371-376
The effect of different types of coastal structure on surface and internal waves has been studied considering the nonlinear properties of the fluid motion. The governing equations are a set of nonlinear equations for a multilayer fluid system in a permeable medium. In the derivation process, the Lagrangian of each fluid layer was integrated vertically satisfying the nonlinear boundary conditions on the interfaces. Then the variational principle was applied to yield a set of fully nonlinear equations taking a continuous distribution of porosity into account. The structures are described as porous bodies. Using this model, several numerical computations were carried out for the surface/internal long waves around transmissive permeable breakwaters including submerged breakwaters, breakwaters with a watercourse and submerged horizontal plates. The deformation of surface/internal waves around different breakwaters has been compared with one another. The water particle trajectories have been also simulated.