抄録
A Boussinesq model which can calculate breaking waves in surf zone has been developed. The eddy viscosity coefficient in the momentum diffusion term for reducing the wave energy due to wave breaking should be estimated appropriately in order to reproduce the wave transformation in surf zone. In this study, wave breaking models are proposed by combining a bore model with models for distributing turbulence energy in time and space domains. The accuracies in the breaking wave calculations are verified by results of model experiments with reef and bar-trough bathymetries.
