抄録
This paper presents the development of models for predictions of near-shore wave characteristics and the evolution of surface rollers. The wave model is based on the concept of an equivalent linear wave, and nonlinear wave characteristics, if necessary, may be reconstructed from the prediction of the equivalent linear wave characteristics. The surface roller model is based on the energy balance equation that is ideally consistent with the proposed breaking wave energy dissipation model. Since both models are based on simple energy balance equations, the entire model retains flexibility and computational efficiency for practical applications. The waves may be periodic or random waves, the beach profile may be plane or barred. Model predictions are compared and show excellent agreement with experimental observations, none of which were used to calibrate the model.
