Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan
Online ISSN : 1884-4146
Print ISSN : 0387-5253
ISSN-L : 0387-5253
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Development of Oil-Based Cosmetics Containing Highly Concentrated Ceramide by Using Organogel Composed of Ceramide, Meadowfoam Estlide and Non-Polar Oil
Hitoshi KumagaiHinayo AsaiKenji KonoHiroyuki AsanoOsamu HiroseSeiji HasegawaHitoshi SawadaMichirou KitaharaSatoru Nakata
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2020 Volume 54 Issue 2 Pages 138-143

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Abstract

Intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum form a lamellar structure, and perform as a protective interface between the human body and external environment. Ceramide is the major component of intercellular lipid and plays an important role in the barrier function of skin. Therefore, a high content of ceramide in cosmetics can be expected to improve the barrier function of skin. However, it is very difficult to make cosmetics containing highly concentrated ceramide since ceramide has high crystallinity in water or in oil. For these reasons, many studies about the ceramide formulations have been conducted on aqueous systems. For example, it is well known that the ceramide formulations with a lamellar structure such as α-gel or liquid crystal improve the barrier function of skin especially well. However, few studies have been done on oily systems. In this study, we attempted to compound ceramide into oily systems with a lamellar structure, and finally it was found that the ceramide was dissolved in non-polar oil by forming a stable organogel with lamellar structure in the presence of meadowfoam estlide. Furthermore, a stable oily cosmetic with a high content of ceramide was prepared by dispersing this gel into oil, and the oily cosmetic had a remarkable improvement effect on the barrier function of skin.

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© 2020 The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan
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