有限深度のStokes波について : 沿岸海洋波の生成理論 その一

抄録

When Stokes waves on the ocean approach to sea shore, wave hights and drift current gradually decrease. So that usual waves with moderate period become smooth somewhat likely to long or solitary waves. However, extremely long waves such as caused by earthquake grow higher and higher at the beach. These are named as Cnoidal waves. In estuary or river-mouth there often occur high waves, which are always on drift or tide current with contrary direction to progressive ocean waves. This paper is some considerations to these phenomena. The maximum wave steepness can reach, which might be seen rarely, 0.407, but the ratio of water depth to wave length is about 1/10 the above value decrease to 1/2.