The style of costume worn by Japanese imperial and aristocratic families at official ceremonies changed during the twelfth century to the stiff kowa 強 fashion, which made it difficult for its wearers to dress by themselves, giving rise to a new occupation of professional "outfitters" practicing the art of emon 衣紋. In the present article, the author takes up one of these outfitters, the Takakura 高倉 family, who replaced the Oimikado 大炊御門 family of outfitters (but exactly when this change occurred has yet to be clarified) and who has yet to be discussed in the research on Japanese family organization (ie 家). Focussing on ceremonies for enthronement, the offering of first fruits (daijo-e 大嘗会) and male initiation (gempuku 元服), the author introduces some newly discovered source materials that enables her to pinpoint exactly when the Takakuras replaced the Qimikados and discuss the way of life of the Takakuras during the medieval period. The first section takes up Takakura Nagatsune 永経, who attired the Jimyoin 持明院 imperial line, and Nagayasu 永康, who attired the Daikaku-ji 大覚寺 imperial line. It is interesting that during the late Kamakura period, the Takakura family split in accordance with the frequent schisms that occurred in the imperial family at that time. Section two investigates the very difficult techniques of agemaki 総角 hairstyling for boys. The art was first possessed by the Tokudai-ji 徳大寺 family, then taken up by the Oimikado family. Then in 1371, the Oimikados taught the art to the Takakuras, when Takakura Nagasue 永季 was temporarily engaged for the agemaki work in preparation for the initiation ceremony of future emperor Go-Enyu. In section three, the author focuses on haku-shozoku 帛装束, the white garment worn at the first fruits and other ceremonies, and shows that it was at the time of Go-Komatsu's enthronement in 1382 that the Takakuras replaced the Oimikados, a change made possible by shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu 足利義満. That is to say, from the Kamakura period, the Takakuras had always functioned as assistants or representatives of the Oimikado family, never being allowed to appear at major ceremonies. It was only due to the wishes of Yoshimitsu that the Takakuras were first able appear in the limelight by replacing the Oimikados in the emon preparation for major ceremonies. What remains to be studied is the role of the Takakura family in outfitting aristocrats and warriors for ceremonies that continued during the transition from medieval time to late premodern times and the Edo period.

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In the present paper, the author attempts to clarify the process by which the family pedigrees (Kamon 家門) of aristocrats (kuge-shu 公家衆) were confirmed (ando 安堵) by the Muromachi shogunate, in order tb investigate the relationship between the shogun and the emperor during the period. First, the author focuses on the Muromachi shogunate from the regime of Ashikaga Takuji to that of Yoshiakira and examines the significance of the shogun confirming the status of main family (honke 本家) and concludes that such certification was not on the same level as chiten-no-kimi 治天の君 confirmations, which included the element of vassalage, but rather was carried out in order to quell rebellion and disputes within the warrior class. The author then turns to the question of how the shogun got involved in confirming the pedigrees of aristocratic families. He states that during the Northern and Southern Court period such confirmation was made by the emberor; however, from the Kanno era (1350-52), opinions on such matters submitted to the emperor by the Muromachi shogun (buke shisso 武家執奏) came to exert more and more influence on obtaining aristocratic status. Such actions were designed to bring the aristocracy into service to the shogunate. The author then focuses on the regime of Ashikaga yoshimitsu, in order to shed light on the process leading up to the shogun's confirmation of aristocratic pedigree. In this sense Yoshimitsu's shogunate can be divided into three periods. During the early and middle years of the regime, aristocrats sought confirmation of their proprietorships from Yoshimitsu on a personal basis, and this tendency strengthened during the later years of the regime. In. an investigation of the background and significance of shogunal confirmation of aristocratic families, the author sites that in the case of Yoshimitsu, 1) very cordial relationships exited between the atistocracy and the shogun, 2) it was a time when pedigree inheritance within aristocratic families has become unstable, and 3) confirmation was granted via personal liege to Yoshimitsu. Finally, the author views the period spanning the shogunates of Ashikaga Yoshimochi and Yoshimasa, in order to examine further developments in shogunal confirmation of aristocratic pedigree. During this period, confirmation would be granted either by the shogun in conjunction with the emperor or by the emperor alone. As to the relationship between the shogun and emperor under this state of affairs, the role played by Yoshimitsu in maintaining and recognizind aristocratic pedigree was gradually transferred to the emperor, as the shogun's function became limited to confirming proprietary rights related to aristocratic pedigree.

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