すくい縫いミシン縫製におけるすくい条件とシームの外観

抄録

The relation between the appearance of blind stitch seams and sewing conditions was examined. The seam appearance was evaluated by sensory tests. Under the conditions that the height of ridge forming disc was low with loose thread tension, the seams had good appearance. It was shown that the conditions that the stitches begin to appear on the right side of seam correspond to the boundary between positive and negative levels of the average preference of seam appearance. From the result of the discriminant analysis, all of the factors affecting on seam appearance, important ones were the height of ridge forming disc and fabric thickness. As for SMD obtained from KES system, the stitches in seams tended to appear with the increase in SMD value but it was not always conspicuous actually. By the result of the principal component analysis for sewing fabric, it was deduced that the first principal component stands for fabric volume and the second one, the roughness of the fabric structure. From the viewpoint of blind stitch sewing, the first principal component was considered to be connected with the fabric characteristics to blind the stitches on the right side of seam and the second one, visual inconspicuousness of existing stitches. Using the plots of the first and the second principal scores, information on sewing condition for fabric can be obtained easily.