Automatic 3D Pattern Making of Fitted Upper Garments Considering Individuals' Figures and Shear Limit of Fabrics

抄録

This study aims to develop a method for computerized pattern manufacturing system of basic upper garments which are fitted for individuals. We developed a method of individual pattern making for upper garments by modifying a traditional draping system. The required shear limit of the fabric to cover a body varies according to the figure of the wearer. We manufactured upper garment patterns for 8 subjects using our pattern making system. The large shear limit (64°) or the ordinarily shear limit (32°) were set to consider the influence of the shear deformation for a fabric. The grain lines and cutting lines were set at the same position as the traditional basic pattern. It was found that it is necessary to consider shear limit and to examine positions of the grain line and cutting line for individual. Furthermore, by setting the positions of the grain line and cutting line for individuals, it was able to make upper garments which were fitted for individuals.