Abstract
The effects of the lining on semi-flared skirts were investigated for wearing evaluation and observation of the hemline. We tested six skirts with two different types of lining cutting patterns combined with three kinds of conventional lining fabrics (cupro, special polyester with a characteristic softness, and regular polyester). The first pattern was a flared pattern having the same contour as the outer fabric (i.e. flared pattern), and the second was of a straight contour with slits on each side (i.e. straight pattern). Thirteen female university students tested and evaluated the comfort of each skirt. The test results showed that skirts with the flared pattern were more comfortable than those with the straight pattern, especially in terms of easiness of body movement. Also, cupro lining ranked higher than other linings in the tactile sensation on the skin. Using the motion analysis method, we observed the hemlines of the outer fabrics and the lining fabrics of the skirts worn on a mannequin, in static and dynamic states. The hemline area of skirts in static state was larger and symmetric in flared linings. The hemline area and hemline travel distance were larger, while space between outer and lining fabrics was smaller in dynamic state in skirts with flared linings than with straight linings. The two fabrics were found to move together in skirts with flared linings, the fact that can be suggested as the reason for more functional mobility. Cupro linings covered smaller hemline areas, but exhibited the most travel ditance and movement with great dynamism. We consider this to be related to the bending and shearing properties of the linings. These results imply that both lining patterns and physical properties of the lining fabrics influence the silhouette as well as comfort.
