平安時代における小袖の成立

その表着化をめぐって

抄録

In this paper, the development of “Kosode” in the middle and the end of the Heian era (10 C.-12 C.) is studied. The study is done from a viewpoint of a life of court-nobles and that of common people.
For common people, in the beginning of the 12th century, “Kosode” was already used as everyday clothes. For them “Kosode” was outwears as well as underwears. “Kosode” was the production of their sense of simplicity and practicability.
In a life of 'Samurai', “Kosode” was used as outwears in the Meiji era (1159-1160) and they began to use colored “Kosode” earlier than court-nobles.
In a life of court-nobles, it is not clear when “Kosode” began to be used. For them “Kosode” was not outwears.