Transactions of Japan Society of Kansei Engineering
Online ISSN : 1884-5258
ISSN-L : 1884-5258
Original Articles
International Presence and Fashion Business in Japan
- To Advocate the Construction of Fashion Engineering -
Tsuyoshi OTANIKyoungOk KIMMasato TAKAHASHISigeru INUIHideaki MORIKAWAMasayuki TAKATERA
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2014 Volume 13 Issue 5 Pages 629-668

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Abstract

In “Cool Japan,” the government has been trying to promote the internationalization of the fashion business by Japanese companies as a national policy since 2005. The aim has mostly failed, and only partially completed efforts have been confirmed. Consequently, the presence of the Japanese fashion business remains weak in the global fashion market. The purpose of this paper is to explain the cause.
While the domestic fashion market has experienced rapid growth over the 50 years following World War II, fashion companies have not shown an interest in foreign markets. Designers of ready-to-wear apparel have followed the fashion styles of Paris and Milan. As long as fashion companies were realizing growing revenues, top management of large-scale fashion companies supported these trends. Top management did not delegate significant discretion for designs to the chief of design, and chief or creative directors had uncertain roles.
As a result, designers may have lost their creativity in a commercial sense, and the chief of design is no longer responsible for sales. Top management has given more priority to modelisme than stylisme. Much interest was focused on mistakes in the product details rather than customer profiles. Senior management understood that we had efficiently conducted our fashion business in this manner.
It became impossible to assume the risk associated with international market expansion. In the 1990s, the price of the property price in Tokyo decreased after collapse of the bubble economy. It attracted the famous fashion houses of Europe to the burgeoning commercial areas of Tokyo. On the other hand, Japanese entrepreneurs were unable to recover markets lost to the Europeans, even by expanding into foreign markets.
Despotic leadership is necessary for the success of the fashion business. As for the company form, possession and management should be the same one. The entrepreneur should delegate the necessary discretion to the chief of design. The chief's discretion will depend on the decision premise, which precedes the first stage of fashion design. The design of fashion clothing will be added according to going through the manufacturing process. The virtual “design chain” is determined by the chief of design.
The manufacturer of ready-to-wear is to “make to stock.” If nobody buy it, ready-to-wear would not exist, and the values are not found. The defects are caused at the design of the first stage. The cheif should owe its responsibility.
This business depends on the sensibility or affection of humans, which is difficult to understand. However, the design chiefs of the textile manufacturers have promoted abduction about the decision premise of the chief designer at Maison. Therefore, marketing activities are being conducted aggressively. The role of a fashion designer of ready-to-wear clothing is different from that of an artist.
From a large chaotic space, a “subset” is extracted. Subset is action space that is shared by certain people. It is assumed that a subset of these is represented by several people, model. Therefore, the task of the chief gives silhouette in this model. If we assume that the silhouette is supported by action space, sellable products can be designed. Action space may exist globally across the border. In many cases, global properties for global markets are lurking among these.

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© 2014 Japan Society of Kansei Engineering
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