1960 年 1960 巻 66 号 p. 50-58
The critical condition for the formation of secondary wave crests in shallow water has been studied using a wave channel 3ft. deep by 1ft. wide by 60ft. long. In the preliminary experiment a horizontal model reef with a vertical drop at its seaward end was installed in order to extend the results of Mason and Keulegan. In later tests this model reef was taken out and the experiment was conducted for a horizontal bottom extending over the entire length of wave channel. The theoretical criterion introduced by Miche was found to be a fairly reliable index.