2009 年 65 巻 1 号 p. 121-125
Wave damping in case of plunging breakers and breaking bores was examined by hydraulic experiments. Wave amplification to wave breaking point was reproduced by numerical simulation by nonlinear dispersive theory, and wave breaking point was estimated by the authors' method accurately. However, an existing wave-breaking model underestimated the wave damping, because that was established by experiments of spilling breakers. A proper model to reproduce the wave damping in plunging breakers and breaking bores was proposed through numerical tests. If we can estimate the breaker type, the maximum error of highest water level becomes 5 to 6 % by selecting the proper model. Even if we cannot estimate the breaker type, the maximum error is round 10 % by using the intermediate model.