土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)
Online ISSN : 1883-8944
Print ISSN : 1884-2399
ISSN-L : 1883-8944
一方向波列の伝播過程におけるFreak Waveの出現と浅水変形の関係について
加島 寛章平山 克也森 信人
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2011 年 67 巻 2 号 p. I_116-I_120

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Nonlinear four-wave interactions influence the statistical properties of deep-water extreme waves such as a freak wave. However, it is still not clear the characteristics of deep-water generated freak wave shoaling to shallow water region. In this study, the experiments with several bathymetry model are conducted to uni-directional random waves. The maximum wave height increases with an increase in kurtosis by third-order nonlinear interactions in deep water. The dependence of the kurtosis on the freak wave occurrence weaken by second-order nonlinear interactions associated with wave shoaling when the dimensionless depth kh < 1.36.

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