土木学会論文集B2(海岸工学)
Online ISSN : 1883-8944
Print ISSN : 1884-2399
ISSN-L : 1883-8944
GPS波浪計で捉えた東北~四国地方太平洋沿岸の沖合波浪特性
河合 弘泰佐藤 真川口 浩二関 克己
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2011 年 67 巻 2 号 p. I_136-I_140

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This study has estimated the monthly-mean significant wave height and period, most frequent wave direction, wave power, and wave and wind calmness ratio at the GPS buoys and their nearby coastal wave gauges on the Tohoku to Shikoku Coast, Japan. There is a similar seasonal variation in the monthly wave statistics among the seven GPS buoys on Tohoku Coast. The spatial variation among these GPS buoys is smaller than the yearly variation. The wave height at the coastal wave gauge is smaller than that at the GPS buoy owing to the surrounding bathymetry. The wave power is generally larger and the calmness ratios are lower at the GPS buoy sites than at the coastal wave gauge sites. The GPS buoys observed high waves near the typhoon center and the wave generation and propagation owing to a low-pressure system.

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© 2011 公益社団法人 土木学会
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