日本海洋学会誌
Online ISSN : 2186-3113
Print ISSN : 0029-8131
ISSN-L : 0029-8131
Deformation of Temporal Pattern of Orbital Wave Velocity and Sediment Transport in Shoaling Water, in Breaker Zone and on Foreshore
Yutaka NAGATA
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ジャーナル フリー

1964 年 20 巻 2 号 p. 57-70

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The horizontal velocities of orbital wave motion were measured by electromagnetic current meters. The deformations of temporal patterns of orbital wave velocity are discussed in respect to two typical beaches of gentle slope and steep slope. The results are examined together with the data on suspended sediments. A simple model on the mechanism of the balance of sediment transport in a cross-section perpendicular t o shoreline is proposed and an explanation is given to account for the occurrence of coarse sands along steeply sloping beach and fine sands along gradually sloping beach.
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© The Oceanographic Society of Japan
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