多方向性を考慮した異常波浪予測モデルの提案とその検証

抄録

Quasi-resonant four-wave interactions may influence the statistical properties of deep-water surface gravity waves such as a freak wave. The freak wave prediction method was developed by Mori and Janssen (2006) based on the quasi-resonant wave theory assuming unidirectional wave condition. In this study, the directional effect is considered for kurtosis estimation from directional wave spectra assuming a semi-empirical relation. The validation of the kurtosisestimation including directional information is performed by operational wave forecasts and observed data.