抄録
A numerical model is developed for estimating the wave transformation and three dimensional beach profile change around the impermeable and permeable breakwater. The temporal and spatial variations in shoreline is taken into account in this model. Wave transformation is analyzed by the characteristics method.
In front of the breakwater le clapotis is formed and the bottom where the wave height is maximum and minimum is accumulated and eroded, respectively. The tombolo is formed behind the breakawater and the beach profile change near the shoreline agrees with the results of the wave flume test and the field observation qualitatively.
