沿岸漂砂量公式に用いる年平均波

抄録

By solving eight equations with some approximations, we have found an explicit expression describing the energy flux at the breaking point in terms of wave quantities in deep sea. This expression enables evaluation of the rational and precise mean waves which are used in the littoral drift computation.
This method is applied to the Yuriage coast by utilizing observed data over six years. Good correlation between littoral drift and the energy flux is found to fix the littoral drift coefficient.