複雑なリーフ地形における波浪変形

抄録

The characteristics of wave transformation on coral reefs change complicatedly under the influence of submarine topography. This study investigated the characteristics of wave transformation when topography changes in the alongshore direction by the hydraulic model experiment and inspected the accuracy of the Boussinesq model equation used for calculation of wave transformation on complicated coral reefs.
It is found that the wave height changes complicatedly under the influence of the alongshore changes of submarine topography. The spatial distribution of long period constituent is represented by the equation for the amplitude of surf beat. The wave height distribution calculated by the Boussinesq equation gave good agreement with the value from experiment.