抄録
Bathymetry and topography near the shoreline, offshore wave and longshore current were measured during a period from April to September in 2003; the surveyed area was 400m in the alongshore direction and about 200m in the cross-shore direction. Shoals and troughs formed near the shoreline at the low water level when the offshore wave energy was relatively low, and moved alongshore when the direction of the longshore current was constant.
Shoreward of the troughs, the foreshore slopes were steeper and the berm heights were higher than shoreward of the shoals. The berms were developed during neap tides with relatively low waves and the increases in the daily mean tide.
