Menthol and camphor formerly were special essential oil products of Japan. After World War II, however, Japan has been deprived of Formosa, the biggest natural camphor producing area in the world. This, together with the appearance of synthetic camphor, reduced Japan's camphor production down to 1, 700 tons in 1963 from the prewar peak of 9, 000 tons (including Formosan camphor).
On the other hand, Japan's output of menthol declined to 300 tons (in 1963) from the peak of 700 tons, due to the advance of the Brazilian menthol on the world market, and the development of synthetic menthol.
Conditioned by climate, weather, and various other factors, Japan is obliged to rely upon imports largely for her essential oils requirements, Japan imported 1, 551 tons of essential oils, worth US9, 640, 000 in 1962, and 1981 tons, valued at US12, 640, 000 in 1963.
Meanwhile, earnest efforts have been, and are being devoted by the Japanese essential oil producers to derive aromatic from various varieties of plants, including Spearmint, Lavender, Geranium, Ho-sho, Vetiver, and Hamanasu (Rosy Rugosa, Thunb),
Output of these essential oils in 1963 is given in the following table:
Production of Essential Oils
Lavender Oil 4, 000
Geranium Oil 5, 000
Ho-sho Leaf Oil 15, 000
Vetiver Oill 2, 000
Technics have been developed to very high levels in Japan, for either growing aromatic plants or extraction of oils or construction of refining facilities, since it is especially necessary in this country to produce maximum possible quantity of essential oil in a limites farming area.
With a view to countering the intensifying efforts are being made to set up refineries in areas fit for growing different varieties of aromatic plants.

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The past several years have brought numerous developments in the perfume industry. Above all, new manufacturing processes of well-established staple perfumery chemicals have recently aroused considerable interest. Some of these are now reviewed.
1. Nanufacture of synthetic terpene alcohols and related materials from β-pinene.
2. Manufacture of some synthetic perfumes from petrochemicals.
3. Vanillin and heliotropine.
4. Cyclamen aldehyde and related synthetic perfumes.
5. Amber odorants.
6. Musk and related substances.
7. Some new aromatic materials.

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It is often said that popularity of perfumes does not so much change year after year as that of colors or costumes. We can see, however, transitions in popurality retracing their developments from old till latest days.
Formerly the perfumes appeared in such simple types as Hungarian Water or Eau de Cologne, succeeded by single floral, floral bouquet or oriental types, for example as Quelques Fleurs, Narcisse Noir or Mitsouko.
With gradual appearance of aliphatic aldehyde, so-called aldehyde types like Reve d'Or, Chanel, Arpège, etc. were created one after another in the nineteen-twenties which can be said the first golden age of French perfumes.
These basic tones had not changed so much until the end of the World War II when remarkably new perfumes such as Miss Dior, Bandit, Ma Griffe, etc. were introduced. The characteristics of these perfumes may properly be said to have green, spicy and animal notes added as modifiers.
In these several years Madame Rochas, Calèche, Cabochard and more recently Graffitti, Idole, Eau, Chant d'Aromes, Enthousiasme, Parce Que, Fete, Diorling, L'Insolent, kalispera have entered as new creations. In my own opinion, however, the perfumes of this series seem to be not so unique, but the variants in some point or another of the traditional perfumes introduced after the War.
From a viewpoint of transitions in European notes it can be said that heavy balsamic notes in Chypre de Coty, Mitsouko or Emeraude are now dying out and aldehyde notes are declining compared with the age of Chanel No. 5. On the contrary we see light floral top-notes of Muguet, Gardenia, Carnation, etc. have become emphasized with use as modifiers of green notes such as leather or quinoline, or of fruity and spicy notes. It may be described on the whole that the perfumes now in vogue have become more of a simple Bouquet type with modest expression of characteristics, consealing, as it were, their individualties within.
Meanwhile in America such sharp and pungent notes in as those Ma Griffe are more popular than straight floral, olassic and heavy oriental notes.
As to new chemicals they have been utilized throughut the world particularly in recent years, and in America it seems that this tendency is most remarkable in the perfumes of middle class used in make-ups, creams, soaps, and so on.
The above descriptions are my general idea with regard to the tendency of odors represented by Extraits.

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Everybody who aspire to be a perfumer, should master all kinds of natural essential oils and synthetic aromatics.
For the purpose of this study, it is very useful that makes the classified lists of aromatic products.
After testing many candidate everyday, we pick out someone who have good sence and keen nose, and train them.
At first, it is necessary for them to study original plants, places of production, extractive methods and aromatic components of all essential oils.
Next to this study, they should compound two or three aromatic products at various ratio and discover the best harmonious ratio between these products.
The conditions of success as a perfumer are followed.
1. Studying under the right leadership.
2. Good environment for study.
3. Nice talent of himself.

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We must consider the racial composition, the distribution of religion, the racial environment, and the degree of civlization before talking about the odor in the Orien. So that it is difficult to say strictly about what odor is mostly liked by them. The mostly populer odor in the world is also commonly used in the Orient, but it does not mean that is really liked by them.
The Orient is said a treasury of the world, and many kinds of perfumes are produced.
We can not neglect that, generally, there is a tendency of liking national perfumary products in these countries, and becaue of shrt of foreign exchayl after the in deperdence in these countries. Because they are independent recently that have little foreign money, the national perfumery products are encouraged to use for their domestic products. Perfumary and Cosmetic industries are still in initial stage the orient except in Japan. Yet many famous world's makers are launching into the Orient lately.
The following perfumes are the main products in the Orient:
Turkey: Rose.
Iran: Rose, Jasmine.
China: Rose, Jasmine, Pepparmint, Cassia, Camphore, Anis, Musk.
India: Jasmine, Lemongrass, Citronella, Sandalwood, Vetivert, Ginger, Musk.
Thailand: Jasmine, Lemongrass, Benzon.
Japan: Pepparmint, Kuromoji, Camphore, Vetivet.
Ceylon: Citronella, Cinnamon.
Java: Citronella, Vetivent, Vanilla.
Taiwan: Pepparmint, Citronella, Camphore.
Sumatra: Patchouli.
Malaysia Patch5uli.
Indonesia: Nutmeg.
Laos: Benzoin.
The South Sea Island: Lemongrass.
And the other, Ambergriss, and Stylux etc..

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Highly interesting facts are observed concerning the chemical structure of serine and threonine, these two amino acids, which account for a relatively large part of the free amino acids, present in the stratum corneum of the epidermis.
Serine and threonine, quite simple as they are in chemical structure, contain in their molecules three active atomic groups, namely, the alcholic hydroxyl, the carboxyl and the amino group.
The presence of these amino acids in the stratum corneum presumably has an important role, both biochemically and physicochemically, considering from the physiology of the epidermis.
To incorporate physiological considerations into the preparation of treatment cosmetics is to introduce a new concept into the conventional cosmetics, which in turn maks it possible systematically to show the proper way how to make and use treatment cosmetics.
Since treatment cosmetics are used primarily for the purpose of maintaining the homeostasis of the skin, they must be such quality as ensure a high degree of equilibrium of the Biological Trio (Sweat, sebum and keratinization products) on the skin surface. However the Trio, which exist as vital phenomenon, is not always found in a equilibrium. The Trio frequetly tend to lose harmony. This is the very reason why treatment cosmetics prepared on the basis of the Biological Trio principle are necessary.
Treatment cosmetics are not make-up or medicines, but foods for the skin. The ideal treatment cosmetics, it might be said, keep the vital phenomenon of the skin in their natural state.

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With the remarkable progress in surface active agents in recent years, numbers of their analytical methoda have been studied and reported. The author carried out, by present work, a study about nonionic surface active agents by means of thin-layer chromatography.

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