幕末における日仏交流から見た男子服の導入

―洋裁店エス・ブーシェ (S. Bouché) を中心に―

抄録

  The author has long been involved in research on how Western clothing styles spread throughout Japan toward the end of the Tokugawa shogunate period. It is interesting to note that the French couturier S. Bouché, which happened to form a relation with Japan early on in the country's pursuit of exchange with foreign countries (in this case, France), played a key role in the diffusion of Western dress among the Japanese.

  S. Bouché was established on November 18, 1862 as Crémieux Bouché & Cie, and then later as S. Bouché & Cie. The name of its shop was Aux Galeries de Paris, located at 29 Boulevart des Italiens. On March 7, 1865, the company name was changed from Crémieux Bouché & Cie to S. Bouché & Cie and a new shop was opened at 138 Rue de Rivoli. On April 26, 1867, a group led by Akitake Tokugawa, then the Popular Affairs Vice-Minister of Japan, visited the shop to purchase Western clothing. A month later on May 26, an agreement was signed that acknowledged S. Bouché & Cie as official purveyor to the Popular Affairs Vice-Minister of Japan. Printed on their shop card were a hollyhock trefoil coat of arms that they created, Japanese and Western swords, the Rising Sun design, and the words “Fournisseurs brevetés de sai le Prince Mimbou Tayo-Dono.” The research revealed that S. Bouché played no small role as a source of men's Western clothing that subsequently spread and developed throughout Japan. On March 28, 1882, S. Bouché & Cie was dissolved. The exchange between S. Bouché and Japan in the latter half of the 19th century set a milestone in the history of men's clothing in Japan.