Abstract
In the previous paper we studied theoretically and experimentally the effects on the shape of lapel of tailored collar in turning up direction by Stuart and Baird bending theory, and found that the shape difference between the right and left lapel was affected by stitching methods.
In this study we examined the dimensional change of lapel caused by different stitching angles at the back side of upper part of collar connected with lapel. The difference between the shapes of lapel was compared, when collar body and foundation are stitched by the order-made and ready-made stitching methods respectively. The results are as follows :
1. The manually stitching method in order-made wear presents more excellent effect than the machine triangular stitching method in ready-made wear.
2. The more stitching angle is sharper, the more excellent effect is obtained in the machine triangular stitching method.
3. Each part of back side of collar is contracted in manual stitching, whereas elongated in machine triangular stitching depending on its interlining materials. This brings forth a lapel deformation.
