成人女子用上半身原型作図法に関する研発

-短寸式作図法の検討-

抄録

A basic pattern making of upper trunk (short-measurement drafting system) was conceived using only human body measurements. We presumed that a closely and simply covered garment was a nearly developable surface similar to polyhedron, and applied the principles of surface development method, with the consideration of the characteristics of fabrics and the simplicity in clothing pattern making. Body measurements, drafting and wearing tests were done. Waist line was assumed as horizontal. Body surface lengths which use for drafting of development were measured with a measuring tape. Plan views for development were made by the horizontal cross-sections of different parts of upper trunk being drafted by 3-dimensional measuring apparatus. Basic pattern contour was drafted using width of pattern determined by the plan views and tape-measured values. Waist darts, from plan views, were entered in basic pattern. The test was conducted on the right half of body, using nine plasters models and one “body.”
Results were found mostly appropriate, but some shortage was noted in outside cloth due to sewing allowance. In conclusion, extra 0.1-0.2 cm was added to 4 items of shoulder part. The reported system will effectively serve not only for individual pattern makings, and for the determination of data notation of upper trunk models, but also for the correction of proportionally-drafted basic patterns and scrutiny of drafting systems.