2001 Volume 52 Issue 3 Pages 251-264
This paper deals with the effect of fabric mechanical parameters on the beauty of fabric movement of a one-piece dress TAV (total appearance value). A total of 40 female students evaluated the TAV of randomly-changed loose-fitting dresses on a movable mannequin that simulated walking conditions. The dresses were one-piece dresses made from 25 kinds of fabric. The mechanical properties of the fabrics were measured with the KES-FB system under a set of standardized conditions for ladies' thin dress fabrics. In order to correlate the TAV with the fabric mechanical properties more closely, we thought that the measurement conditions should be reconsidered to be near the force levels applied to the fabric of a one-piece dress during a walking condition. Therefore, we also made a trial tester based on a KES-Labo model to measure the tensile and shear properties. Using this tester, we measured the tensile property under a lower tensile force than the standardized condition for a KES-FB1, as well as the shear property in smaller shear deformations under smaller tension applied to the edge of a fabric specimen that is almost the same level as the fabric weight of a dress. The contributions to the TAV made by the basic mechanical properties of fabrics, as well as by parameters derived from the basic mechanical parameters related to clothing appearance, were investigated using multiple regression analysis. The results show that the tensile property is closely related to the TAV, although the bending and shearing properties have been mainly discussed in previous research on the beauty of movement of ladies' dresses. The findings obtained in this study could be applied as a set of basic data for the selection of fabric materials for making dresses as the designer intended, for the development of new materials, and so on.
