日本化粧品技術者会誌
Online ISSN : 1884-4146
Print ISSN : 0387-5253
ISSN-L : 0387-5253
香りの表現方法に関する研究 (その2) 一般パネルと専門パネルの比較
小柳 敏栄堀越 理子山川 新
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ジャーナル フリー

1988 年 21 巻 3 号 p. 210-218

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In these days various series of perfumes are on the market. It is very important for cosmetic companies to know what types of perfumes are preferred, and what kind of impression those perfumes give. On the 13th Scientific Seminer of the SCCJ we published the results of our research about the evolution of the sensory terms (that is image of perfumes) to the expert terms of perfumes, under the title of “The Development of the Image Evolution of the Sensory Terms on Creating Perfumery”. We have used the results in practice and we have had a good achievement in developing fresh type of perfume as to Citrus types, and Oriental types of perfumes as to Animal and Balsam types. However, it turned out that it failed in developing Floral types, Aldehyde Floral types and Chypre types of perfumes. We found that some gaps existed between perfumers and consumers in image formation to the perfumes.
Now we carried out the sensory evaluation with 21 perfumes by 43 consumer-panels and 9 perfumer-panels using 20 sensory terms and 15 expert terms (for only perfumers) to grasp the difference between consumer-panels and perfumer pannels.
Consequently it proved that the perfumers are superior to consumers because the variance of evaluation data is small and the discriminating ability is high, while as to consumers the variance of evaluation data is large and the discriminating ability is low. however after classifying the 43 consumer-panels using cluster analysis, they were divided into 5 clusters, and the variance of evaluation data becomes small and the discriminating ability becomes high in each cluster.
As to the terms based on the concept of Light-Heavy, the consumers' evaluation data in each cluster corresponds to that of the perfumers'. However, as to the other terms, the evaluation data between the consumers and the perfumers was different. Only one cluster never corresponds to the concept of perfumes. It is concluded that each cluster has a character, then it is necessary for perfumers to create perfumes aiming at one or some clusters, considering each cluster's character.

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