低圧環境シミュレータによる高所登山前トレーニングの一試行

―マッキンリー登山隊の場合―

抄録

Two well conditioned climbers performed physical training in hypobaric chamber for 4 consecutive days (June 11-14, 1980) before their Mt. McKinley Expedition. Simulated altitude was 4, 000m on the 1st day, 5, 000m on the 2nd day, 6, 000m on the 3rd day and 7, 000m on the last day. Daily exposures were 3 to 3.5 hours. During exposures, subjects exercised on a bicycle ergometer intermittently for 50 to 90 minutes with the load of 300 kpm/min to 450 kpm/min. After these training procedures they left Japan on June 20th and arrived at McKinley base camp site (4, 200m) on 26th by way of Anchorage. Without any action for acclimatization they started base camp (B. C.) at 19: 30 on 26th and reached the top of the Mt. McKinley (6, 192m) at 02: 30 on 27th and returned to B. C, at 05: 00 on that day. It took only 7 hours from B. C, to the top and they both had no symptoms of altitude sickness during the climbing. From these results it is undeniable that physical training in hypobaric chamber was effective to the actual high altitude mountaineering.